Hale Butler: 2015 Construction

Demo hall bath tub and tile surround; tile had to be cut out due to lathe/plaster installation

The floor tile had to be removed with a jack-hammer/chisel

After the installation of this shower liner, we dry packed the floor, the Red-Guard waterproof before install of tile backer

Quite a bit of wood rot behind the old posts and balusters. We seal everything prior to install to prevent this.

Demo master bath cabinetry and sink top

Add caption

The master bath hot-tub space after demo. Demo required jack-hammer due to large amount of cement used.

After building the hall bath shower seat and curb, we waterproofed the seams with Red Guard.

Upstairs lanai after demo of rails and balusters


Upstairs lanai after demo of rails and balusters...we will be replacing the corner post

Prior to installation of the replacement beam, we had to jack up the sagging joists before attaching to the new straight beam to get a level floor.

This picture illustrates the painting/sealing of the open-end grain of the joists before beam installation.

The 2x4s under the beam are simply to hold it in place while we secure it with the lag bolts

To prevent wood splitting around lag bolts, we drilled appropriate-sized pilot holes before lag installation. Note: we replaced all of the old posts with new. The old posts here are simply being used for temporary bracing/shoring materials.

We first used smaller 3/8' lag bolts to suck things tightly together.

We drilled appropriate-sized pilot holes to prevent the wood from splitting, then installed 1/2" galvanized lag bolts and washers. Note the 4' spacing of the 4x10 floor joists; we will have to reduce that span to prevent tile cracking.

The trim work on the previously installed glass-wall panels is rotting due to poor sealing techniques and improper fasteners.

This is happening primarily on the inside panels because they were primed prior to installation, but not sealed around the fasteners and repainted after installation. The nails are rusting, creating voids and trapping moisture.

Completed beam.

Here we installed the 4x4s to reduce the 4' span between the 4x10 joists to eliminate floor bounce. The 2x2 furring strips are installed so we can put in a ceiling panel between the 4x10 joists to hide the irregular spacing of the 4x4 and the under-side of the 2x6 decking. Now would be a good time to install some recessed down lights and eliminate the exterior wall lights in this area of the lanai.

Installing 1/2" tile board in preparation for exterior tile. The copper flashing is used on the drip edge to eliminate water seepage between tile and 2x6 substrate floor.

Blocking to prevent floor bounce and tile cracking on lower lanai

Lower lanai blocking

Master bath floor after installation of tile backer board.

After installing the tile backer board in the upper lanai, we waterproofed the area with Red Guard to prevent potential water drips from the ceiling below.

Note that all of the open end-grain on the framing members were sealed prior to installation. The 2x6 rail caps will be both primed and painted to seal the end-grain before final installation.